Small Surf


Sometimes the waves are small and you've gotta squat real low to ride them (ehem, Traci is too cool for me). The smaller and mushier the waves, the harder it is to catch. But the perks are that it's relatively empty out there. Except for the grom that is totally killing it and his dad owning the waves with his paddle. And the guy doing a cheater five and the couple coming out on longboards. Ok so, it's never really totally empty out there. But it is definitely quieter. The calm ocean a sheet of endless grays and blues...It's really just nice to be out there (lol if you've ever surfed on a lousy surf day, you'll hear at least one dude say this). But you know, (s)he has a point..

Shani LeeadComment